RAW AROMACHEM

From Discovery to Formulation to Scale(How Real Perfume Brands Are Built)

This guide is not just about using the kit. It's about thinking like a perfumer - and a brand owner.

“This is not a casual sniffing kit. This is a professional learning tool.”

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  • Before you touch any bottle, it’s important to unlearn a few common myths.

    Perfume is one of the most misunderstood businesses in the world.

    People see bottles, branding, compliments, and assume the rest is easy.
    It isn’t.

    This section exists to make sure you start this journey with clarity, patience, and realistic expectations. Getting this right early will save you time, money, and frustration later.

    Perfume is often marketed as mystery, luxury, and emotion. While those things matter to customers, behind every good perfume is chemistry and time.

    There is no single ingredient that guarantees longevity or projection.

    There is no shortcut that replaces proper testing.

    Perfume rewards those who respect the process.

    Expectation vs Reality

    Let’s address the most common assumptions directly.

    Myth: A good perfume must project loudly for many hours
    Reality: Most high-quality perfumes project strongly only for a short time, then sit closer to the skin.
    Strong projection is usually temporary. Longevity often expresses itself more subtly.

    Myth: More perfume oil means better performance
    Reality: Overloading oil often ruins balance, smoothness, and we arability.
    Higher concentration does not automatically mean better perfume.

    Myth: Fixatives can solve every performance issue
    Reality: Fixatives only refine perfumes; they do not replace good formulation.
    They are supporting tools, not magic solutions.

    Myth: One test is enough to judge a perfume
    Reality: Perfumes change with time, skin chemistry, weather, and maceration.
    Performance shows after blending and resting - not immediately.

    What Actually Affects Perfume Performance

    Perfume performance depends on multiple interacting factors:

    • Raw materials
    • Concentration
    • Alcohol interaction
    • Fixatives
    • Skin chemistry
    • Climate
    • Resting and maturation time

    No single factor works in isolation.

    Judging perfume without considering all of them leads to wrong conclusions.

    A Reality Most Beginners Miss

    Raw perfume oils are incomplete by design.

    They are meant to be:

    • Diluted
    • Blended
    • Rested

    Judging a perfume oil straight from the bottle is one of the most common beginner mistakes.

    Performance, balance, and character reveal themselves after formulation, not before.

    A Final Reality Check

    “Beast mode” performance from every perfume sounds attractive.

    But those promises don’t build sustainable perfume businesses.

    Perfumery is slow by nature.

    Time is not your enemy — impatience is.

    If you can accept that, you’re ready to move forward.

  • This kit is designed with a clear purpose.

    It is not meant for everyone — and that is intentional.

    Understanding whether this kit is right for you is just as important as understanding perfume itself.

    Who This Kit Is For

    This kit is for you if:

    • You want to understand perfumes deeply, not just smell them
    • You are new to perfumery and want to learn how perfumes actually work
    • You aspire to start a perfume brand or perfume business, now or in the future
    • You want to learn how to test, evaluate, and improve perfumes properly
    • You care about consistency, quality, and customer trust, not shortcuts
    • You are willing to test, learn, and improve over time
    • You are open to experimenting, waiting, observing, and learning

    If you see perfumery as a skill to be developed, not a trick to be exploited, this kit is designed for you.

    Who This Kit Is NOT For

    This kit is not for you if:

    • You expect perfumes to last 24 hours with extreme projection
    • You believe stronger always means better
    • You want instant results without testing or patience
    • You compare small-batch perfumes unfairly with mass-produced designer brands
    • You are only looking for fast profits, not long-term brand value
    • You don’t want to test, experiment, or learn

    Perfume will always expose unrealistic thinking.

    This kit does not support shortcuts.

    A Clear Boundary

    This is not a casual sniffing kit.

    It is a professional learning tool.

    It is meant for:

    • Learning
    • Testing
    • Understanding

    Not for instant selling.

    Mistakes made here are cheap.

    Mistakes made later — at scale — are expensive.

    One Line That Matters

    Perfume is chemistry + patience + market sense.

    If that makes sense to you, you are in the right place.

  • Before you can judge a perfume, you need a shared language to describe it.

    This section gives you that language.

    Not to memories notes -

    but to understand how perfumes are built, categorized, and experienced.

    Scent Families: The Big Picture

    Scent families are broad categories used to describe the overall character of a perfume.

    They are not rules. They are reference points.

    Most modern perfumes do not belong to just one family - they often sit between two or more.

    Common Scent Families

    • Fresh / Citrus – clean, bright, uplifting(lemon, bergamot, orange, aquatic notes)
    • Floral – soft to rich, romantic, expressive(rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily)
    • Woody – dry, warm, grounding(sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, patchouli)
    • Oriental / Amber – warm, resinous, sensual(amber, vanilla, resins, spices)
    • Gourmand – edible, sweet, comforting(vanilla, chocolate, caramel)
    • Fougera – aromatic, fresh, masculine-leaning(lavender, herbs, mossy notes)
    • Chypre – dry, elegant, structured (bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli)

     Scent families help you:

    • Identify what you like
    • Group similar perfumes
    • Communicate clearly with customers

     

                 
  • Perfume notes describe how a perfume unfolds over time.

    They are not physical layers.

    They are stages of perception, created by evaporation speed.

    Top Notes

    • The first impression
    • Smelled immediately after application
    • Usually last a few minutes (citrus, fresh, sharp notes)

     Middle (Heart) Notes

    • The core identity of the perfume
    • Appear after top notes fade
    • Form the “character” of the scent (florals, spices, aromatics)

     Base Notes

    • The foundation
    • Last the longest
    • Give depth, warmth, and memory (woods, musks, amber, vanilla)

    This is why raw perfume oils often smell heavy or base-dominant - the lighter notes need dilution and time to appear properly.

  • This is where many beginners get confused.

    • Notes are individual scent impressions
    • Accords are combinations of notes that create a new smell

    Think of it like music:

    • One instrument = one note
    • Multiple instruments together = an accord

    For example:

    • Rose + jasmine + lily → a floral accord
    • Vanilla + amber + musk → a warm accord

    Accords are what give perfumes complexity and balance.

    You are not smelling single ingredients You are smelling relationships between them.

    How to Read Perfume Notes Correctly

    Perfume note lists are guides, not formulas.

    Important things to remember:

    • The order of notes does not mean quantity
    • Some listed notes are impressions, not actual ingredients
    • Two perfumes with similar notes can smell completely different

    Use note lists to understand:

    • The direction of the perfume
    • What appears early
    • What stays longest

    Not to judge accuracy.

  • Many people confuse notes with performance.

    Projection

    • How far the scent travels from the skin
    • Usually strongest in the first 1–2 hours

    Longevity

    • How long the scent lasts on skin
    • Often felt more closely over time

    Sillage

    • The scent trail left behind as you move
    • A result of both projection and diffusion

    A perfume can:

    • Last long but project softly
    • Project strongly but fade faster

    Performance is a balance, not a single number.

    A Final Perspective

    You are not memorizing notes.
    You are learning how perfumes behave.

    Understanding structure comes before judging quality. Once you understand this, testing becomes clearer - and fairer.

  • Understanding 5%, 10%, 15–20% — and What EDT, EDP & Partum Really Mean

    Concentration is one of the most misunderstood concepts in perfumery.

    Most people believe concentration only controls how strong a perfume is.

    In reality, concentration controls how a perfume behaves.

    Understanding this correctly will change how you:

    • Test perfumes
    • Evaluate performance
    • Price products
    • Communicate with customers
    • Build a perfume business

    What Concentration Actually Means

    Concentration refers to the percentage of perfume oil diluted in an alcohol base.

    It does not only affect intensity.
    It directly influences:

    • Balance between notes
    • Opening sharpness
    • Smoothness of dry-down
    • Projection style
    • Longevity perception
    • Wearability
    • Cost per bottle

    Higher concentration does not automatically mean better perfume.

    The Three Concentration Levels You Must Test

    To understand any perfume properly, it should be tested at multiple concentrations.

    This guide recommends starting with three practical levels.

    5% — Light, Fresh & Everyday
    What it teaches you:

    • Freshness
    • Clean openings
    • Daily wearability
    • Mass appeal

    How it behaves:

    • Softer projection
    • Faster evaporation
    • Easier to wear in warm climates

    This concentration is often underestimated but performs extremely well in real-world usage.

    10% — Balanced & Commercial
    What it teaches you:

    • Structure
    • Balance
    • Realistic market performance

    How it behaves:

    • Clear identity
    • Controlled projection
    • Comfortable longevity

    For many perfumes, this is where the composition feels the most complete and wearable.

    15–20% — Intense & Niche-Leaning
    What it teaches you:

    • Depth
    • Density
    • Base-note dominance

    How it behaves:

    • Stronger presence
    • Slower evaporation
    • Can feel heavy if not well balanced

    This level is not suitable for every perfume or every customer.

    Click 👇🏻
    Simple Mixing Reference (10 ml Example)

    Accuracy Matters.
    Professional Perfumery begin with precise measurement


    What to Observe While Testing Concentration

    When testing the same perfume at different concentrations, focus on:

    • Which version feels most balanced
    • Where the perfume feels harsh or smooth
    • How projection changes
    • Which version feels wearable, not overwhelming

    Many perfumes perform best before reaching the highest concentration.

    Understanding EDT, EDP, Parfum & Extrait

    Terms like EDT, EDP, Parfum, and Extrait are commercial classifications.

    They describe approximate concentration ranges, not quality levels.

    They help position perfumes in the market — they do not guarantee performance

    Click 👇🏻
    Common Industry Reference Ranges
    These range are Guidelines, not strict rules

    What These Labels Do NOT Mean

    • EDP does not automatically mean stronger than EDT
    • Parfum does not guarantee better projection
    • Extrait does not mean everyone will experience better longevity

    Performance still depends on:

    • Formulation
    • Balance
    • Raw materials
    • Skin chemistry
    • Climate
    • Resting and maceration

    The Bridge That Matters (Read This Carefully)

    Think in percentages while formulating.
    Use EDT, EDP, Partum terms only when positioning or selling.

    This single distinction separates professionals from beginners.

    Click 👇🏻
    Concentration is Also a Business Decision

    Professionals choose concentration based on:

    • Climate
    • Customer habitss
    • Market positioning
    • Cost structure

    Not ego.

    A Common Beginner Mistake

    Adding more oil to “increase performance” often:

    • Ruins balance
    • Makes perfumes tiring to wear
    • Reduces customer acceptance

    Strength without wearability does not sell.

    A Principle to Remember

    The best-selling concentration is rarely the strongest one.

    Once you understand this, perfume stops being guesswork and starts becoming product design.

  • How to Test Perfumes Like a Professional

    (Blotter vs Skin vs Fabric · Timing · Projection · Longevity)

    Most people test perfumes emotionally.

    Professionals test perfumes methodically.

    This section teaches you how to evaluate perfumes in a way that is:

    • Fair11
    • Repeatable
    • Comparable
    • Useful for business decisions

    If testing is done incorrectly, even good perfumes will feel disappointing.

    The Golden Rule of Perfume Testing

    Never judge a perfume from a single test.

    Never judge a perfume without knowing its concentration.

     

    Testing without structure leads to false conclusions.

    Step 1: Blotter Testing (Structure & Comparison)

    Blotter testing is the first level of evaluation.

    What Blotter Testing Is Used For

    • Understanding overall scent direction
    • Comparing multiple perfumes side by side
    • Identifying harsh openings
    • Spotting obvious imbalances

    How to Test on a Blotter

    • Dip or spray once only
    • Do not oversaturate
    • Let it rest for 30–60 seconds
    • Smell from a slight distance first 

    What NOT to Expect from Blotters

    • True longevity
    • Skin chemistry interaction
    • Real-world performance

    Blotters show structure, not reality.

    Step 2: Skin Testing (Real Performance)

    Skin testing shows how a perfume behaves on a human body.

    How to Test on Skin

    • Apply 1 spray or 1 small dab
    • Do not rub
    • Apply on clean, dry skin
    • Avoid applying multiple perfumes close together

    What Skin Testing Reveals

    • Longevity
    • Diffusion
    • Comfort and wearability
    • How notes evolve over time

    Skin chemistry varies — this is normal, not a defect.

    Step 3: Fabric Testing (Customer Reality)

    Many customers judge perfumes on clothes.

    Ignoring fabric testing gives incomplete feedback.

    How to Test on Fabric

    • Spray once on cotton or similar fabric
    • Avoid silk or synthetic blends initially
    • Let it dry naturally

     

    What Fabric Testing Shows

    • Perceived longevity
    • Scent trail (sillage)
    • How the perfume is remembered

    Fabric often holds base notes longer than skin.

    Understanding Testing Timing (Very Important)

    Perfumes change with time.

    Testing at the wrong moment leads to wrong judgments.

    Click 👇🏻
    Recommended Testing Intervals

    Projection Testing (How Far It Travels)

    Projection is how far the scent travels from the body.

    How to Test Projection Properly

    • Apply perfume once
    • Wait 10–15 minutes
    • Ask someone else to smell:
    • At arm’s length
    • At about 1 meter

     Important Truth

    Projection is usually strongest early.

    Softening over time is normal and desirable.

    Longevity Testing (How Long It Lasts)
    Longevity should be tested passively, not obsessively.

    Correct Longevity Testing Method

    • Apply once
    • Do not keep smelling repeatedly
    • Check at fixed intervals
    • Note when the perfume becomes a skin scent

    Longevity is not about shouting — it’s about presence over time.

    Projection, Longevity & Wearability (Together)

    A perfume can:

    • Last long but project softly
    • Project loudly but fade quickly
    • Feel strong but uncomfortable

     

    Professionals look for balance, not extremes.

     

    A wearable perfume with moderate performance

    often sells better than a loud one.

    Nose Fatigue & Testing Limits

    Your nose gets tired quickly.

    To Avoid False Judgments

    • Test a maximum of 4–5 perfumes at one time
    • Take breaks between tests
    • Fresh air works better than coffee

    Over-testing creates confusion.

    Why Perfumes Feel Different on Different Days

    Perfume perception changes due to:

    • Temperature
    • Humidity
    • Skin condition
    • Mood and focus

    One bad test does not mean bad perfume.
    Professionals test over multiple days before deciding.

    A Professional Testing Checklist

    Before judging any perfume, confirm:

    • Concentration is known
    • Maceration time is complete
    • Tested on blotter, skin, and fabric
    • Tested across time intervals
    • Tested more than once

    If these steps are followed, your conclusions will be reliable.

    Final Perspective

    You are not testing to impress yourself. You are testing to understand behavior.

    Testing discipline creates confidence. Confidence creates consistency. Consistency builds brands.

  • Understanding Aromafix & Aromaboost Through Real Testing

    Fixatives are one of the most misunderstood tools in perfumery.
    They are often treated as shortcuts to performance.
    They are not.

    This section exists to help you understand fixatives through controlled experimentation, not assumptions.

    What Fixatives Actually Do

    Fixatives help perfumes by:

    • Slowing down evaporation
    • Supporting base notes
    • Improving smoothness
    • Making performance feel more even over time
    • Enhancing overall balance

    Fixatives work with a formulation — not against its weaknesses.

    When used correctly, they make a perfume feel refined, not louder.

    What Fixatives Do NOT Do

    Fixatives do not:

    • Instantly create extreme longevity
    • Turn a weak perfume into a powerful one
    • Replace good formulation
    • Fix poor balance or harsh compositions

    If a perfume is badly built, fixatives will not save it.

    Understanding the Two Fixatives in Your Kit

     Your starter kit includes two different fixatives, each with a different role.

    • Aromafix – focuses on fixation and stability
    • Aromaboost – focuses on enhancing diffusion and perception

    Neither is “better”.

    They are tools designed for different outcomes.

    The Correct Way to Test Fixatives
    (3-Sample Controlled Experiment)

    To understand fixatives properly, you must test them side by side, under identical conditions.

    Step 1: Fix the Base Formula

    • Choose one perfume oil
    • Choose one concentration (for example, 10%)
    • Use the same perfume base
    • Measure accurately using the measuring cylinder

    Do not change anything except the fixative.

    Step 2: Prepare Three Samples

    Create three identical perfume samples:

     Sample A – No Fixative (Control)

    • Perfume oil + perfume base
    • No fixative added

    This shows the natural behaviour of the perfume.

    Sample B – With Aromafix

    • Same perfume oil
    • Same concentration
    • Same dosage
    • Add Aromafix at the same fixed percentage

    This shows the effect of fixation and stability.

    Sample C – With Aromaboost

    • Same perfume oil
    • Same concentration
    • Same dosage
    • Add Aromaboost at the exact same percentage as Aromafix

    This ensures a fair comparison.

    Important Rule: Aromafix and Aromaboost must be added at the same dosage for the experiment to be valid.

    What to Observe During Testing

    Test all three samples on:

    • Blotter
    • Skin
    • Fabric

    Observe them at the same time intervals.

    Focus on:

    • Smoothness of the opening
    • Change in harshness
    • Projection feel
    • Longevity perception
    • Overall balance and comfort

    Do not judge immediately.

    Fixatives show their effect over time, not in the first few minutes.

    How to Interpret the Results

    You may notice that:

    • The no-fixative sample smells more raw or uneven
    • Aromafix feels smoother and more stable
    • Aromaboost feels more present or noticeable

    This does not mean one is “better”.

    It means they serve different purposes.

    Fixatives vs Concentration (Important Reminder)

    • Concentration controls how much perfume oil is present
    • Fixatives control how the perfume behaves over time

    Adding more oil is not the same as adding a fixative.

    When Fixatives Should Be Used

    Fixatives make the most sense when:

    • The concentration is already finalised
    • The perfume feels balanced
    • You want consistency and refinement

    Fixatives are finishing tools, not starting tools.

    A Common Beginner Mistake

    Adding fixatives too early often leads to:

    • Confusing results
    • Wrong conclusions about performance
    • Overcomplicated formulas

    Always fix:

    1. Structure
    2. Concentration
    3. Balance

    Only then introduce fixatives.

    A Rule You Should Remember

    Fixatives refine good perfumes.
    They do not rescue bad ones.

    Once this is understood, fixatives stop feeling mysterious and start behaving like what they really are - precision tools.

  • Why Perfume Needs to Rest Before It Can Be Judged

    Maceration is one of the most misunderstood steps in perfumery.
    It is often rushed, skipped, or misunderstood — and most performance complaints are born here.

    Maceration is not optional.
    It is part of formulation.

    What Maceration Actually Is

    Maceration is the resting period after mixing, during which:

    • Alcohol binds with fragrance molecules
    • Sharp edges soften
    • Notes blend into each other
    • The perfume stabilises
    • The true character of the perfume emerges

    Time is not passive in perfumery.
    Time is active.

    What Maceration Is NOT

    Maceration is not:

    • A strength booster
    • A shortcut to better performance
    • A fix for weak oils
    • An instant process

    Maceration does not create performance that wasn’t already possible.

    It reveals what the perfume was meant to be.

    Why Perfumes Smell Different After Resting

    Immediately after mixing:

    • Alcohol dominates
    • Notes feel disconnected
    • The perfume feels rough or unfinished

    After proper maceration:

    • Alcohol integrates
    • Notes feel smoother
    • Balance improves
    • Performance feels more natural

    Judging a perfume before maceration is complete leads to false conclusions.

    Click 👇🏻
    Recommended Maceration Timeline

    Some perfumes reveal themselves earlier.
    Some require more time.

    Rushing this step always leads to disappointment.

    Proper Maceration Conditions

    For consistent results:

    • Store in a cool, dark place
    • Keep bottles tightly sealed
    • Avoid sunlight and heat
  • These two are often confused.

    • Fixatives = chemical support
    • Maceration = time-based harmony

    Fixatives refine behaviour.
    Maceration harmonises composition.

    The best perfumes use both correctly - never one instead of the other.

    When to Judge a Perfume

    A perfume should only be judged when:

    • Concentration is final
    • Fixatives (if used) are final
    • At least 14–21 days of maceration is complete

    Anything before that is incomplete evaluation.

    Maceration vs Fixatives (Read Carefully)

    These two are often confused.

    • Fixatives = chemical support
    • Maceration = time-based harmony

    Fixatives refine behavior.
    Maceration harmonizes composition.

    The best perfumes use both correctly - never one instead of the other.

    When to Judge a Perfume

    A perfume should only be judged when:

    • Concentration is final
    • Fixatives (if used) are final
    • At least 14–21 days of maceration is complete

    Anything before that is incomplete evaluation.

    A Common Beginner Mistake

    Smelling a freshly mixed perfume and concluding:

    • “It’s weak”
    • “It’s harsh”
    • “It doesn’t smell right”

    Most of the time, the perfume simply hasn’t rested yet.

    Why Maceration Matters for Business

    Inconsistent maceration leads to:

    • Different smell in every batch
    • Confusing feedback
    • Customer complaints
    • Difficulty scaling

    Consistent maceration leads to:

    • Predictable performance
    • Reliable quality
    • Easier formula locking
    • Professional output

    Time protects brands.

    A Rule You Should Never Ignore

    Perfume that has not rested has not yet spoken.

    If you respect time, perfumery will reward you.

  • How to Compare Fairly - and What Never to Expect

    Comparison is natural.
    Unfair comparison is destructive.

    Most disappointment in perfumery doesn’t come from bad products - it comes from wrong comparison methods.

    This section teaches you how to compare perfumes correctly, honestly, and professionally.

    Why Comparing With Market Perfumes Is Tricky

    Market perfumes (designer or niche) are:

    • Developed over months or years
    • Aged and stabilised at scale
    • Built using proprietary aroma molecules
    • Produced with large budgets and long testing cycles

    Expecting a freshly mixed or small-batch perfume to behave identically is unrealistic.

    Similarity is achievable.
    Exact duplication is not.

    Why Exact Cloning Is Unrealistic

    Exact cloning is unrealistic because of differences in:

    • Raw material sourcing
    • Molecule availability
    • Ageing processes
    • Batch size
    • Budget and infrastructure

    The Only Fair Way to Compare Perfumes

    If you want a comparison to mean anything, the conditions must be equal.

    Always Compare:

    • Same concentration
    • Same maceration period
    • Same skin
    • Same number of sprays
    • Same testing time intervals

    Never Compare:

    • Raw oil vs finished perfume
    • Fresh mix vs aged perfume
    • One quick sniff vs full wear
    • Blotter only vs skin wear

    Unfair inputs create unfair conclusions.

    What You Should Compare Instead of “Exact Match”

    Professional comparison focuses on:

    • Scent direction (overall feel)
    • Category alignment (fresh, woody, gourmand, etc.)
    • Dry-down character
    • Wearability
    • Value for price

    This is how professionals evaluate perfumes - not by perfection.